Morning in the Land of Enchantment

Our last night in Arizona turned dark with clouds and soon after going to bed the rain and wind started. I lay awake a while wishing I had staked my tent more carefully.

The morning brought a 2500 foot climb up to a pass at a little over 6000 foot elevation. As we crested the ecology completely changed. Now we were out of the desert, cactus and red rock landscapes of Arizona and into stands of large pines and expansive grassland meadows of New Mexico. This is beef country.

The descent was slow and gradual, beautiful cruising at 5500 feet, the vistas out over plains below spectacular. Big rollers made crossing the plains harder work than it had looked from above and the winds were strong and variable, so a group of us got together and drafted the last 9 miles into Buckhorn.

The RV park in Buckhorn had no redeeming features (save a lack of loud domestic incidents that had kept some of the group awake in 3 Way) so we were all happy to hit the road this morning and head for Silver City. Today was also dominated by cool temperatures, dark clouds and a 6200 foot pass. Whereas yesterday we cranked to the 2500 foot ascent in a little over 10 miles, today was much more gradual, taking over 30 miles for the ascent and concluding with the a crossing of the Continental Divide. The Silver City RV park is a very pleasant and well kept establishment (in stark contrast to last night).



Tomorrow: a rest day and visit to the Gila (pron. He-la) Cliff Dwellings - by car



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3 Way

More excellent Arizona riding in pleasant temperatures and sweet tail wind. Tonight we are staying in the town of 3 Way (pictured).
We are approaching Silver City, New Mexico. Much discussion in the group about which route to take: flatter or more scenic (i.e. mountainous), rest day in Silver City, Lake Roberts or Gila Hot Springs. It all sounds good to me.
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The invisible thread

After setting out from Globe towards Thatcher, 76 miles away, I started getting slower and slower. I began to think I shouldn't have packed that extra 1/2 gallon of water. My knees and lower back started hurting. Then my bike started getting all jelly-like and very unstable, and I wondered if the it was getting fatigued: maybe the bike and I were not up to the task. Then the back end got really wobbly... and I looked down and I had a slow flat.
I pumped a few times to get my rig to the highway rest stop at Bylas, where the group ate lunch in the shade and I pulled the back wheel off, extracted a tiny thread of wire (steel belted radial shrapnel) and replaced the tube. I guess that counts as a working lunch?
The afternoon ride was a glorious cruise up the Gila River valley, cool temperatures and nice tail wind, effortlessly cruising at 15-20 mph. It felt like being pulled along by an invisible thread.
Finished off with a very large chocolate dipped ice cream and into camp shortly after 3pm.
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A change in the weather

Now one day out of Phoenix.

The day dawned cloudy, and stayed that way. It even spat a few drops of rain. The temperatures now 20F (11C) lower all around. And finally the winds turned to our back (for the first time on the trip). Now very pleasant riding conditions. The man with the split rim has rejoined the group, but not the lady with the bad back.

Only 25 miles to ride today, starting with a 2000 foot climb up a beautiful red rock canyon on a road with little or no shoulder. We were passed by a semi when going through a tunnel - the guy just wailing on the air horn. That'll make you sweat (if you're not already).

Coming back down from the mountain pass we entered a copper mining area. I explored the town of Miami, AZ which had clearly once been a booming party town, but now just an inhabited ghost town. I loved the faint signs in front of boarded up buildings advertising "Mixed Drinks". A bright white Spanish style church sat sedately on its square while enormous dark mining plants loomed from the hill behind.
Some bikers (of the Harley variety) met on the road had recommended the Drift Inn bar in Globe, our destination town, so we pulled up outside around noon. It had been a brothel when established in 1902 and hasn't changed much since. The Tucson Blondes were cheap so we had a round of those and something to eat before reluctantly setting off for camp early afternoon.

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Rider Profile

This is my roommate in Phoenix - Derrick. He was the Head of Town Planning for the Borough of Langbarugh on Tees, North Yorkshire, UK until he retired 12 years ago. He has always been an active sportsman, playing soccer for the (British) Army in 1958. He took up cycling 3 years ago when the doctor told him to give up indoor soccer on account of his knee. He was riding about 150 miles a week on his mountain bike before coming on this ride. He enjoys spending time with his grandchildren and growing his own produce in his plot in the parish allotment.
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It's a hard life on the road

Here we are sipping Coronas and barbecuing steaks with our team member's brother near Phoenix, AZ.
Ah, this is a hard life...
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Not much fun riding today

I was assistant cook tonight, which meant getting to camp early to help shop and prepare the group food. So out early and hard slog along Highway 60 through the Arizona desert. 54 miles (mostly uphill) and into camp by 1:30pm.
Goes without saying that it was blistering hot with no shade, but at least I didn't have a tummy problem like three of the riders. Pounding sun, no shade, 54 miles and bubbling insides - now that's uncomfortable.
Tomorrow we head into Phoenix for 2 nights. About half the group including me will spend the first night at the house of the brother of one of the riders, then rejoin the group at a motel on the second night. For most folks the rest day will be spent fixing and cleaning gear.
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Freeway Riding

After two nights camping on the California side of the Colorado river, we set out across the bridge and continued our journey into Arizona. Most of the morning was spent climbing, doing 6 miles an hour along the side of the 10 Freeway - which is not nearly as bad as it sounds.

Freeway riding pros and cons
Cons:
- loud and scary when large trucks pass
- flat tires from the debris of blow steel belted truck tires
- difficult to see scenery on left hand side
Pros:
- nice wide shoulder
- easy grades
- truck traffic makes air flow in direction of travel

By 1pm we were off the freeway and into beautiful cactus desert. Locals at the Country Store where we were restocking water said it was 105F (42C) out; our thermometer read 103F in the shade.

Mid-afternoon as we started climbing up the last ascent it was very hot, so we stopped in at the Kofa Cafe. We ordered drinks from the proprietor and sat for about an hour and a half, until it had cooled a little.

We rode into Salome just after dark; another 12 hour day. Unfortunately there are no campgrounds in this tiny town so we were forced to settle for indoor accommodations.
All in all a pleasant and quiet day.

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Reflection

Counting riding days forward from San Diego and backwards from Phoenix leaves a gap of 20 miles, so today was short; moving camp.
I set off riding by myself. Moving silently through the fields I couldn't stop crying. Today's serenity an overwhelming release from yesterday's brutality. The intensity of the teamwork required to beat the wind, heat and mechanical issues took its toll on everyone. Two of the riders didn't make it. One lady's back went out early in the day, and the rim of one man's rear wheel started to split so he was taken back to Brawley by the CHP. They'll both be out getting repaired and may rejoin later, perhaps in Phoenix.
Passing through Blythe I stopped in at the diner to take some time alone before continuing on to the campground. I was a great little break: the waitress calling all the customers by name (Mister This and Miss That) and singing along with the oldies radio station.
So for now we are riding as 13, and tomorrow we head back into the mountains.

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A long day

We set out under lights in the cool pre-dawn and watched the sun rise directly in front of us, slowly bringing to life a misty agricultural landscape. Then, in an instant, the green gave way to yellow; a line drawn in the sand by the water rights map.
We climbed through the vast Imperial dunes, the hot head wind making tough going to Glamis - not a town, just a run down general store. Last water for 40 miles.
The head wind was now around 20 miles an hour. Only 12 inches of shoulder on the road which is a main route for heavy trucks. Sun beating down we were making 5 miles an hour. The desert was stunning as we climbed up into the Chocolate Mountains. Hour after hour battling heat and wind swept sand before finally descending into the lush Colorado river valley. 70 hard won miles; 12 hours of riding.
Now I write from my tent pitched up next to the quiet river. Sounds of snoring. A couple more beers consumed than would have been prudent. A day to remember - loved every minute of it.

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Into the pressure cooker

40 miles: but not easy. Beautiful desert riding early in the day, but on a heavily broken up surface making riding challenging. By mid morning we had moved into intense agricultural country, the mercury had found its way north of 100 and a strong head wind had developed. It was hard going the last 10 miles, but a couple of (illegal) plunges into the canal cooled things of a bit.

All was forgiven by 1:30pm when I arrived at the rec center where we are staying and they had a huge new outdoor swimming pool (with infinity edge)! The evening was spent going over tomorrow's ride. 70 miles, 1200 feet climb, sand desert, and only one water source (about 1/2 way along).
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Lettuce, Fence, Mexico

The temperature didn't turn out to be much of a problem today as we climbed up and down through the border country. I chatted with some nice folks on the way: a store keeper, a recumbant tourer on his way to Santa Fe, a trucker, a Sheriff. Our route took us right up against the border fence. The roads were busy with check points and Border Patrol vehicles of various descriptions.
We ended the day with a long descent to Ocotillo. Our group of 4 arrived around 6pm when it had cooled off to 104F from the 109F when the first group arrived.
We did 6500 feet of climbing over the past 2 days. Tomorrow its a fast 40 mile run across the valley floor to Brawley.
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Getting out of town

The day began at 6:30 sharp as the first planes from San Diego airport thundered over the hostel. We convened at the beach in a celebratory mood, then set off bound for Florida.



We climbed gently up a long valley. Rode through a nice state park (pictured) and through the outer SD suburbs. The day ended with a long climb up to the campground in Alpine in full afternoon sun; 1200 feet of elevation gain in the last 10 miles.



Derrick (from North Yorkshire) thought the heat today was "extreme". It was 91F (32C) but it felt much hotter with no wind, no shade and the sun reflecting off the blacktop. The campground has a beautiful pool - at least it was beautiful to me. The camp is now quiet. The stars are out, the crickets are chirping away, a few tents glow softly. The city is now behind us.



Tomorrow we're starting early. We climb up to 4000 feet in hilly terrain. Forecast is for 108F (42C).



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We start tomorrow

The group met up at the Point Loma hostel in San Diego last night. 15 people brought together for 9 weeks solely because they have a passion for cycling. Initially it seemed like that might not have been such a good idea, but things relaxed a bit today, which was a gear test/team building day. We all went down to the beach and took some photos, rode along the coast a bit and generally tweaked gear and did nerdy bike stuff. It looks like there are enough personalities in the group to keep things interesting (maybe even through west Texas).

Into the Great Wide Open

I finally found the video of my last bike trip in 2006, so I uploaded it to Vimeo. [It helps if you press Play, then hit pause and wait for a while so it can download, then hit Play again.]



I love it - for me it captures the vastness and beauty of the Wyoming mountain ranges, uniquely experienced by bicycle. I hope you like it too.